The Robinson Crusoe Islands are a fantastic place to visit. They offer incredible vistas for the tourist, beautiful landscapes with strange plant forms for the curious, a quiet haven for those in need of rest, and an unbeliveable richness of plant diversity for the naturalist. In fact, they harbor one of the most unusual and interesting floras found anywhere in the world. This is a true botanical paradise awaiting the perceptive visitor.
The Robinson Crusoe Islands are also known as the Juan Fernandez Islands, so named for the Spanish discoverer who first sighted them in 1574. Their association with Robinson Crusoe of the novel by that name by Daniel Defoe (1719) derives from the personal experiences of the scottish sailor, Alexander Selkirk, who survived in the Islands more or less in isolation from 1704-1709. Due to a disagreement with Captain Straddling of the ship Cinque Ports, Selkirk insisted that he be set off on the next available land, which happened to be the Robinson Crusoe Islands. After five years he returned to London where he received attention from journalists of the day, which stimulated Defoe to craft his famous novel.
The Robinson Crusoe Islands are still remote and relatively inconvenient to reach. One can travel there most rapidly by air in a small 5-6 seater airplane on a journey that traverses 600 kms and takes 2 1/2 hours. There is no concrete runway--only a smooth dirt surface levelled for landing purposes. Or, one travels two days by boat from Valparaiso under difficult circumstances, even with the best of weather. If it is stormy, it becomes an unforgettable experience!
There are three principal islands in the Robinson Crusoe archipelago at approximately 33[[ordmasculine]] S latitude.
Figure 1, the three principal islands.
The one closest to the
continent is Isla Robinson Crusoe (also known as Masatierra, or literally,
"closer to the continent"). Just off the coast of Masatierra on the
southwestern side is Santa Clara, a small island about 2.4 kms square.
Masatierra, by comparison, is 48 kms square. Further west into the Pacific
some 150 km is the other main island, Alejandro Selkirk (or Masafuera,
literally meaning "further away" from the continent). This island is more
remote than the others, and it can be reached only by boat; there is no landing
strip for airplanes. Alejandro Selkirk, at 50 kms square, is also slightly
larger than Robinson Crusoe.
Although uninhabited by aboriginal peoples, the Robinson Crusoe Islands have experienced a continuous human presence since their discovery. At the present time approximately 500 people reside permanently on Robinson Crusoe (Masatierra), dedicated to tourism, government work (post office, port duties, military tasks, local government, etc.), and lobster fishing. This latter is the most important source of income for the islands, with one lobster commanding up to $20 US in the mainland. There is no permanent settlement on Alejandro Selkirk (Masafuera), and 20 fisherman and their families stay there for the duration of the lobster season (approximately Sep-Apr). These persons are truly isolated; the only contact comes from the supplies boat from the continent that arrives on an average once each month. Radio communication exists between the islands, and on a favorable day direct contact can be made with the Chilean continent. Robinson Crusoe is much more connected to civilization with radio to telephone contacts allowing communication anywhere on earth. Television via satellite also arrived several years ago, and the people (especially the children) have integrated this glimpse of the rest of the world into their daily life (for better or worse).
The overall aspects of the three islands are strikingly different (Figs. 2-5). Robinson Crusoe Island is known radiometrically to be approximately 4 million years old (Stuessy et al., 1984), and its deeply eroded hills and broad valleys correspond with this age.
Fig. 2, Robinson Crusoe Island (main ridge of island viewed from Cerro Pascua).
Santa Clara is about the same
vintage, and it is likely that the two islands were connected up to one million
years ago or less (perhaps separated and then reunited briefly with lowering of
sea level during Pleistocene glaciation. Santa Clara is almost without native
vegetation, being inhabited mainly by introduced grasses.
Fig. 3, Robinson Crusoe Island from Selkirk's Lookout looking West (with Santa Clara in the distance).
Because of
its small size, Santa Clara can be seen clearly from the highest points of
Robinson Crusoe, and it is beautifully framed from several points of
observation including the popular vista from Selkirk's Lookout.
Fig. 4, Santa Clara.
Alejandro Selkirk is a younger island (1-2 million years old; Stuessy et al.,
1984), and its geomorphology reveals narrower and deeper ravines (or
"quebradas") characteristic of younger oceanic islands.
Fig. 5,
Alejandro Selkirk Island (near Quebrada Helecho Bonito).
It is also a
more difficult island--more difficult to explore, more difficult to endure its
greater isolation, and more difficult not to fall in love with it; it
enlivens the senses and heightens the spirit!